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Cities · North America · 39°57′N 75°10′W

Philadelphia

Founding-era brick, the strangest collector in America, and a door in a museum behind which Duchamp kept his last secret.

Philadelphia Museum of Art, Philadelphia · Public domain
Best monthsApril–June and September–October
Art calendarFirst Friday gallery openings in Old City (monthly)
This guide4 essentials · 3 places off-piste
EssentialsOff-Piste in PhiladelphiaOne dayNearby

Essentials

Philadelphia Museum of Art, Philadelphia · Public domain
Museum · Fairmount

Philadelphia Museum of Art

At the top of the steps Rocky ran up: Cézanne's Large Bathers, and the largest Duchamp collection anywhere, including Étant donnés, his last work, seen only through two holes in an old wooden door.

Look for: The wooden door.
Barnes Foundation, Philadelphia · Public domain
Museum · Benjamin Franklin Parkway

Barnes Foundation

Albert Barnes's collection of Renoir, Cézanne and Matisse, hung exactly as he arranged it, beside door hinges and old ironwork, in a 2012 building by Tod Williams Billie Tsien.

Look for: Matisse's mural The Dance, made for the arches of the main room.
Closed Tuesdays · book ahead
Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, Philadelphia · CC BY 4.0
Museum and art school · Center City

Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts

America's first art museum and school (1805), in Frank Furness's polychrome building of 1876: Thomas Eakins, who taught here, and Mary Cassatt, who studied here.

Look for: The stairs and their star-studded blue ceiling.
Rodin Museum, Philadelphia · CC BY-SA 4.0
Museum · Benjamin Franklin Parkway

Rodin Museum

A small Beaux-Arts museum (1929) with one of the largest Rodin collections outside Paris, behind a garden and a cast of The Gates of Hell.

Look for: The Gates of Hell at the entrance.
Off the list

Off-Piste in Philadelphia

Rooms, ruins and curiosities: the city's other museum.

Philadelphia's Magic Gardens, Philadelphia · CC BY 2.0
Outsider art · South Street

Philadelphia's Magic Gardens

Isaiah Zagar's maze of mosaics made from bottles, bicycle wheels, mirrors and broken tiles, filling a lot and the walls around it. He has covered more than 200 walls in the city.

The words hidden in the walls.
Mütter Museum, Philadelphia · CC BY 4.0
Unusual museum · Center City

Mütter Museum

The College of Physicians' museum of medical history: skulls, wax models, a wall of swallowed objects, and slides of Einstein's brain.

The Hyrtl skull collection.
Wagner Free Institute of Science, Philadelphia · CC BY 2.0
Unusual museum · North Philadelphia

Wagner Free Institute of Science

A Victorian natural history museum of 1865 that has barely changed since the 1890s: wooden cases, handwritten labels, and a lecture hall still in use.

The original labels.
Nearby

Brandywine Museum of Art

Three generations of Wyeths, in a 19th-century grist mill by the river at Chadds Ford, about an hour away.

Grounds for Sculpture

A sculpture park with gardens in Hamilton, New Jersey, about an hour away.

If you have one day

Philadelphia Museum of Art at opening → the Rodin Museum → the Barnes (booked) → lunch → PAFA → Magic Gardens before closing.

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